Lie Detector

Here's a simple lie detector that can be built in a few minutes, but can be incredibly useful when you want to know if someone is really telling you the truth. It is not as sophisticated as the ones the professionals use, but it works. It works by measuring skin resistance, which goes down when you lie. 

Parts 

Part                             Total                         Qty.                 

ResistorR1                    1                             33K 1/4W 

Resistor R2                   1                             5K Pot 

Resistor R3                   1                             1.5K 1/4W 

Capacitor C1                 1                             1uF 16V Electrolytic Capacitor 

Transistor Q1                1                            2N3565 NPN Transistor 

Analog Meter M1         1                             0-1 mA 

Case

Wire

Electrodes  

Notes

1. The electrodes can be alligator clips (although they can be painful), electrode pads (like the type they use in the hospital), or just wires and tape. 

2. To use the circuit, attach the electrodes to the back of the subjects hand, about 1 inch apart. Then, adjust the meter for a reading of 0. Ask the questions. You know the subject is lying when the meter changes.

Magnetic Gun

courtesy

Picture in figure is a miniature magnetic gun. When optimally tuned, it will propel a small slug about 1.5 metres high, or 2.5 metres horizontally. IC1 is a 555 timer in astable mode, sending approx. 10 ms pulses to decade counter IC2. IC2 is continually reset through R3, until pin 15 is taken low through the "Fire" button. IC2 then sequences through outputs Q1 to Q7, to feed power transistors TR1 to TR4, which fire electromagnets L1 to L4 in rapid sequence. Transformer T1 secondary is 18 volts 1 amp A.C. When rectified and smoothed, this provides 25.2 V D.C for electromagnets L1 to L4. Resistor R4 drops 12 V to obtain a supply voltage low enough for IC1 and IC2. The electromagnets are wound on a 25 cm long, 3 mm dia. copper tube (available at hobby shops). Two "stops" may be cut from tin for each electromagnet, and 500 turns of approx. 30 swg. enamelled copper wire wound between them. The electromagnets should be wound on a base of reversed sellotape, so that one may slide them on the copper tube. The slug (or "bullet") is a 3 cm long piece of 2 mm dia. galvanized wire, which should slide loosely inside the copper tube. Most crucial to the effectiveness of the gun are the setting of VR1 and the positions of electromagnets L1 to L4 on the copper tube (the values and measurements shown are merely a guide). Firstly, with L2 to L4 disconnected, VR1 should be tuned and L1 positioned for optimum effectiveness (place a wire inside the tube to feel how far the slug jumps with L1). Then L2 (now connected) should be positioned for optimum effectiveness (the slug will now exit the tube). Repeat with L3 and L4. Electromagnets L2 to L4 were each found to substantially increase the range of the gun. In a forthcoming edition of EPE, the author will describe how readers may land a small projectile on Mars.